Archive for August, 2007

The Taste of Olives

Wednesday, August 29th, 2007

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Recently I was discussing olive oil with someone and they brought to my attention the fact that most North American consumers have no idea what olive oil should really taste like. This is something I had noticed at the farmers’ markets when people would taste our oil. Most people really like it but tell us that it taste so different from the olive oil they regularly use. There were also those who made a terrible face and exclaimed, “It tastes strange! Like olives!” This really blew me away: what is it supposed to taste like, if not olives?

Amelia Oil tastes different for two reasons. Firstly, it is fresh. Most of the oil you buy in stores has been sitting around on the shelf for ages. We only sell fresh oil that has been shipped and stored in optimal conditions (cool and out of direct sunlight). Second, Amelia Oil 100% extra virgin olive oil grown and processed with the greatest care and pride. A lot of the oil on the market sold as extra virgin olive oil has little to do with olives.

At first it seemed absurd that people should remark on the olive taste of our oil but now I can understand why, although I have tasted Greek and Moroccan oils with much more predominant olive flavours. Amelia Oil has a touch of olive but there is also a fresh grassy taste followed by a hint of pepper. Every year it is a little different and I think it is important to remind people that olive oil is an agricultural product that is affected by the weather.

Food Miles?

Monday, August 27th, 2007

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Lately I have been thinking a lot about food miles and it has been heavy on my consciences for a while. For the past six years I have been a member of Slow Food and I truly believe that eating locally is a good thing from the point of view of taste, environment and economy. Yes, this has led me to a dilemma: I am importing olive oil from Italy. How do I justify this? Good question. I guess my line is that moderation is the best path: I eat local when I can and I try to be aware of food miles. For example, I eat local and seasonal produce that supports nearby farms. This makes up the bulk of my groceries. However, I purchase spices and, of course, olive oil from abroad. Let’s face we just can’t produce olive oil in Canada!

At the same time, there has been a lot of debate lately over the validity of the food miles argument. A recent article in the New York Times by James McWilliams presents the findings of environmental researchers in New Zealand who argue that the environmental cost of local food is not always as low as imported food. What is a shopper to think?

Over the holidays I read Michael Pollen’s Omnivore’s Dilemma and Pollen makes a strong case for eating locally as a protest to the industrial food chain. I agree that change starts with the consumer. In many ways I feel that is what we are doing at Amelia Oil: we are giving our customers a chance to support sustainable, small-scale farming in Italy. With fraud and poor quality rampant in the olive oil industry, it is about time that consumers demand transparency.

After living in central Italy for several years I never really got used to using butter again. What can I say. The health benefits of eating olive oil only confirm my non-local food choice. I also know that Amelia Oil is the best quality and it is produced by people I know and care about.

Slippery Business: Olive Oil Fraud

Thursday, August 16th, 2007

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I just read a great article in the New Yorker magazine that uncovers some of the widespread fraud in the olive oil business in Italy. It was about time people started talking about it in North America. I think it is just the tip of the iceberg but nonetheless it is a good call for consumers to be vigilant when purchasing olive oil. It really is necessary that we demand transparency and quality. It is also time to support farmers directly and make sure they are being paid fairly for their products. Cheap oil, can’t be good oil!Take a look at my olive oil buyers guide to see how you can try to protect yourself from olive oil fraud.

Caveat Emptor: A buyer’s guide to olive oil

Tuesday, August 14th, 2007

Facing rows of bottles in the olive oil section of an upscale grocery store, I felt overwhelmed. What is the difference between all of these oils with fancy labels? Why are the prices so different? If I spend a lot of money, will I get an exceptional olive oil I will like? I don’t think I am alone in feeling confused when it comes to buying olive oil. In addition to not knowing where to start, the labeling on some of these products can be misleading and out-rightly false. This short guide to buying olive oil will help you become a better-informed consumer who gets what they want or at least what they bargained for.

Buy fresh olive oil
In my opinion, the most important consideration when buying oil should be its date of production. Unlike wine, olive oil does not get better with age. As oil ages, it loses its taste and colour. It is a good rule to consume your olive oil when 18 months of production: insist on fresh olive oil and make sure the bottle you are buying has a production date and not only a ‘best by’ date, which means very little.

Read the label
Half the battle of buying good oil comes when reading the label. Now that you have located the date of production, you might want to consider what kind of oil you are paying for: look for the quality of oil. Extra virgin olive oil is the most sought after and the priciest. Extra virgin has low acidity, which makes it perfect for using as a condiment on salads, grilled meats, vegetables, fish and soups. Some labels may even include the level of acidity (the lower the better). Now you should look for the area of production and the origins of your oil. This can tell you a lot about the style of the oil; for example, if it is heavy, fruity, spicy or light. The label might also mention the types of olives (cultivars) used in producing the oil. I always think that the more information given to the consumer, the more likely you are to be getting a quality product. I prefer artisan oils that are produced by small-scale farmers and I avoid multi-national brands. Big name olive oils usually have rather murky origins.

Not all olive oil is the same
Olive oil tends to compliment the local cuisine of where it is produced. Amelia Oil from Umbria is perfect on the grilled meats and lentil soups, which is typical fare in that region. If you want to drizzle oil on fish, you might consider using a Sicilian, Ligurian or Southern French oil that is lighter and better suited to the delicate taste of fish. Not all olive oil tastes the same and not everyone likes the same oils. I would suggest buying several types of olive oil from different regions and experiment with tastes in the kitchen.

Price
Just because an olive oil is expensive doesn’t mean it is good. If you buy fresh oil and you know where it is from, you are more likely to get good oil. Although the aesthetics of the bottle can play a part in the consumer’s decision making process, it is time to look beyond the package and demand sustainable fair-trade olive oil. That said, you should also be aware of olive that is too cheap: it is not likely to be 100% olive oil and certainly not extra virgin.

Buying olive oil can be tricky business because there are very few regulations placed on the labeling of this product. The European Union is trying to impose some order, but the lobby and interests of big industry is proving a major challenge. Shop intelligently and demand quality and transparency.

Amelia Oil at the Dundarave Farmers’ Market

Wednesday, August 8th, 2007

We will be at the Dundarave Farmers’ Market this Saturday, Aug. 11 from 9am-4pm. There are  still bottles and tins of our 2007 extra virgin olive oil available. In addition, we will also be accepting orders for this years harvest, which will arrive in early February 2008.

Come down and say hello. See you at the market.